Sleeping with dead bat at Cat Tien national park

THIS IS HOW WE WERE GREETED IN AND INTRODUCED TO THE CAT TIEN NATIONAL PARK AND ITS TRAILS. SEE, I TEND TO FORGET THAT I AM NOW IN A TROPICAL COUNTRY, WHERE SUCH ANIMALS LIKE CROCODILES ARE FOUND NOT ONLY IN ZOOS.

ARRIVING AT CAT TIEN NATIONAL PARK

We tumbled out of the van outside the Cat Tien National Park, relieved that we were finally here. The the sound of the horn was still ringing in our ears. The driver surely wasn’t easy on the beeping. For the last 40 minutes of the ride, his hand barely got off the horn.

See, a lorry in front of us, on this tiny gravel road, was not letting us overtake it (because there wasn’t any space). Our driver’s reaction to this was to keep beeping without a release, up until the road split and the lorry went off in a different direction.

IF THERE WAS EVER A TIME WHEN I FELT THAT BEEPING SHOULD BE ILLEGAL, THIS WAS DEFINITELY IT.

We arrived at the Green Hope Lodge, which is based only 500 meters outside the Cat Tien National Park, just as the sun was setting. We were greeted by a pack of dogs, the owner of the lodge, and the most refreshing glass of complimentary fresh passion fruit juice ever.

The sounds of the jungle replaced the usual bustle of the city we were used to, and large fruit bats were already out to feast on the longan fruit trees.

As we put our bags down we admired the bungalow we were staying in – modern, clean and beautifully decorated. There even was an extra bed! Absolutely perfect. Except for the strange, unpleasant smell…

Presuming the smell came from the bathroom due to bad piping (which is fairly common in Asia) we closed the bathroom door and went off to have a feast they called dinner.

FEASTING LIKE ROYALTY AT GREEN HOPE LODGE

Pumpkin soup, chicken with ginger, rice, salad and beer. The table was covered in dishes that looked and tasted absolutely amazing. The portions were so ridiculously large that no matter how hard we tried, we only managed to finish half of the food.

With bellies full and faces gleaming, we started getting ready for bed. It’s an early start tomorrow!

We cuddled up comfortably in the clean, fresh sheets and life seemed perfect. Except for that damned smell…

EXPLORING CAT TIEN NATIONAL PARK

In the morning we were up bright and early, after a pretty restless night. The heat of the room made the unpleasant smell worse, so we had to sleep with covers on our noses for most of the night… With our eyes barely open and bodies internally screaming for more sleep, we made our way to the dining area to have some breakfast.

At 7.30 we were at the gates of Cat Tien National Park and by 7.45 am we were on a wooden ferry-boat taking us across the Dong Nai river.

The weather seemed so fresh and comfortably cool, unlike anything we felt in the past two months. The sun was bright but it wasn’t scorching – now we understood why we were advised to get up so early.

At the Cat Tien National Park headquarters we rented out two bicycles that were in the most acceptable state. I mean, their tires weren’t flat and the breaks worked, even if they screeched louder than a cat on heat – what more do you need?

And soon we were pedaling straight into the beautiful jungle.

The concrete path led us through the northern part of Cat Tien National Park. The forest was as lush as ever and the birds were chirping their morning songs. Thousands of gorgeous butterflies were dancing all along the road, some small but bright with color and some as big as birds. Listening to the sounds of the nature and enjoying the soft breeze, I couldn’t help but smile up until my cheeks hurt.

In excellent moods, we were ready to explore what Cat Tien National Park had to offer.

THE ANCIENT TUNG TREE

As I hugged the gigantic Ancient Tung Tree I felt so small. This tree has been standing here for centuries. It has been hugged by thousands of others and yet this moment was mine. Respect filled my heart. Respect for such an ancient presence in this forest, which was still alive.

Unfortunately, locals didn’t always see this Ancient Tung Tree as something worth conserving.  That’s why it is covered in carvings – names, hearths with initials and other silly things are carved deep into the bark, forever scaring this magical tree.

However, knowing that this tree will still be standing here when we are long gone made me feel humble. It seemed to take its scars in its pride.

BOTANICAL TRAIL

As soon as we entered the Botanical Trail we realized that cycling is in no way an option. Looks like we’ll have to push our bicycles instead. Not the most convenient way to trek but I’d rather do this than risk having these bicycles stolen.

Beautiful tropical birds started appearing high up in the trees. The insects got louder and seemed to surround us now. A gigantic squirrel made an appearance for a second or two, and we could hear gibbons serenading someplace even further in the jungle.

THE DEEPER IN THE JUNGLE WE WENT, THE MORE IT SEEMED TO COME ALIVE.

At one point the brush behind us started rustling. Rolo and I froze, hoping this wild animal would show itself if we are quiet enough. We waited patiently, but the creature was still hesitant.

Rolo made a silly joke about how it might be a big wild cat for all we know, and at first it was funny. But soon enough the tension started building and scenarios of how I am being mauled by a wild tiger started playing in my head. We are in the middle of a jungle, after all.

We started approaching this creature slowly, trying our best not to scare it, or worse – make it defensive.

“It must be quite large” – we thought, because its movements made a lot of noise.

Slowly we approached closer, and through the bushes we saw a rooster slowly making its way across the jungle with a hen for a companion. I burst out with laughter, feeling the relief wash over me. God knows how it got there, but I am sure as hell glad it wasn’t a tiger or a moon bear after all.

AP TALAI ETHNIC VILLAGE

The 28 km cycle to the Ap Talai Ethnic Village was a true enjoyment. Well, most of the time.

The air was clean, the butterflies accompanied us the whole time, and the jungle was simply dazzling in the sunlight.

But around halfway the soft dirt road became covered in big stones, and these bicycles have no amortization whatsoever. At that stretch of the road, staying upright became a whole lot harder. But we managed nonetheless, even if we could not feel our butts in the end.

In all honesty, the Ap Talai Ethnic Village itself was a little disappointing – it wasn’t ethnic at all. The houses were modern, there was a newly built school and the fire station was no different than everywhere else.

Apart from the single wooden longhouse in the very beginning, this little village seemed like any other.

Well, at least after cycling nearly 30 km I will not feel guilty devouring another feast for dinner tonight. Look on the bright side, right?

FINDING THE DEAD BAT

Whilst walking back to our bungalow we talked about how we are meant to be leaving tomorrow morning, but Cat Tien National Park turned out to be so amazing! And there is still so much to explore… Perhaps we could stay another night? But only if we figure out what that smell in our room is and get rid of it.

By now we have determined that it’s most likely coming from the extra bed in our bungalow, as the smell seems to linger specifically on that side of the room. Luan (the owner’s son) lifted the mattress and took it out, while his mother started lifting the wooden boards that the mattress is placed on. In the mean time, I went to the other side of the room so I get a view from a different angle.

That is when I saw something on the floor underneath the bed. I went up pretty close but couldn’t quite make out what it was. But sure as hell it wasn’t there last night because we checked everything.

I reached out with my hand to pull it out into the light, but changed my mind in the last second – that thing could be anything, and I really didn’t want to touch it without being sure that it wasn’t going to hurt me in any way. We are in the jungle after all, scorpions and snakes tend to frequent these houses once in a while…

The mother came over with a broom and pushed it out. All of a sudden the smell made a whole lot of sense.

RIGHT THERE, ON THE FLOOR, LAID A HALF DECOMPOSED BAT.

It couldn’t have been dead for long because it wasn’t even dried yet, but the smell was so pungent that it was hard to keep the lunch down.

The mother started apologizing immediately, and Rolo and I were just laughing at the situation.

To be completely honest, I was just happy our room will not stink anymore. Therefore, it is decided – we will stay an extra night.

That night we spent playing board games with Luan and other guests. We drank home brewed ‘banana liquor’ (it was more like moonshine than liquor) with Luan’s father and other workers. Drunk and merry, we had an absolutely brilliant evening.

And I don’t know if it was the alcohol, or the lack of dead bats in the room, but the sleep that night night was as peaceful and good as they get.